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​BIG CHANGES FOR THEM

 

Although it is a joyous event for you to finally bring your puppy home, this is a time of big changes for them. 

 

They have just left their mother, father, littermates, older brother and their “other mom”, all of whom have been with them every day of their lives until they go home. They will miss their dog family, while also being curious about their new surroundings. 

 

Each puppy responds to this sudden change in their life in their own way. 

 

We appreciate that you will be showering them with love, kindness and security while they make the adjustment. 

 

They are resilient and they will adapt fairly quickly, over the first few days. 

 

On a soul level, they know that they are truly home.  

 

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BE EXTRA CAUTIOUS UNTIL THEY ARE FULLY VACCINATED

 

Your puppy will receive their first two vaccines here and will be sent home with their vaccine records and upcoming vaccine schedule. 

 

Until your puppy is fully vaccinated, at age 16 weeks, an abundance of caution should be exercised to keep them protected from highly contagious diseases. Some of which, parvo for example, can be fatal to puppies. 

 

The best thing that we can do to keep them safe is to get them VACCINATED every 2 - 3 weeks, until they are 16 weeks old. 

 

In the future, I suspect that antibody titer testing or some other means will become the standard protocol for puppy vaccine schedules but until that becomes more reliable and available, I stick with current veterinary recommendations that we have successfully followed for years, which is a series of vaccines. 

 

The puppies receive maternal antibody protection from their vaccinated mothers colostrum but it is known that by about age 16 weeks, most puppies have lost that early protection. 

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Additionally, maternal antibodies that they receive from their mom via colostrum, are known to rendered the earlier vaccines ineffective. 

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​The reason for the series of vaccines is to allow time for the puppy to acquire their own antibodies, while the maternal antibodies decline. 

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To be safe, your young puppies should not be around any other dogs that are not household members unless you are certain that the other dogs are not sick and are up to date on their vaccines. 

 

Prior to being fully vaccinated, your puppy should not go to any dog parks, dog beach, no rest stops on the drive home, no pet relief areas at the airport or hotels, no parks or playgrounds with other dogs, no popular hiking trails, no pet stores (in the cart is likely safer than on the floor), etc. 

 

As much as possible, try not to put them on the ground ANYWHERE that other dogs are likely to have been, until they are 16 weeks. 

 

I even carry them in to the veterinary clinic for the first few visits so they are not on the floor in the waiting area. 

 

When you are out driving with them and they need to potty, take them to areas with natural terrain or landscaped areas that are unlikely to have had much, if any, dog traffic.

 

After their 16 week vaccines, they are free to go anywhere and it is good to get them out and about for lots of experiences and socialization. This is also important before age 16 weeks but with discernment. 

 

Vaccines & dewormer administered here

 

Age 6 weeks

 

• Canine Spectra 5

 

Age 7 weeks 

 

• Dewormer - Panacur C -  for 3 consecutive days

 

Age 8 weeks

 

• Canine Spectra 5 

 

After they go home

 

Age 10 weeks 

 

• Canine Spectra 9

 

Age 13 weeks 

 

• Canine Spectra 9

 

       OR 

 

• Canine Spectra 10 

       Spectra 10 includes Lyme Disease vaccine

       Spectra 9 or 10 but not both 

 

Age 16 Weeks 

 

• Canine Spectra 9 or 10

• Rabies - 1 year

• Microchip 

• Heartgard prescription

• Flea & tick meds prescription if needed

 

For those comfortable giving your own vaccines, you can do the next two at home yourself and save the veterinary appointment for age 16 weeks. 

 

On the other hand, it can be nice to establish care early at your local vet veterinary clinic because they can get pretty booked up these days.

 

The vaccines need to stay refrigerated so bring some ice packs when you buy them if you do the vaccinating. 

 

The Rabies vaccine is provided by a veterinarian. 

 

Some veterinarians give the combination vaccine at the same time as the rabies and others like to space the two out by a few days. 

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Annual vaccines thereafter. 3 year Rabies next year. 

 

DOG FOOD 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your puppy was free fed a 50/50 blend of Royal Canin Large Breed Dry Puppy Food and Hill's Science Diet Large Breed Dry Puppy Food. 

 

I order it from Chewy.com 

 

These are the brands that veterinarians have been recommending the most for about 60 years. 

 

Veterinarians have told me that the 100’s of other newer brands tend to focus on marketing, whereas Royal Canin and Science Diet have put a great deal of their funding into research over the decades.  

 

I admit, the ingredients of some other brands do tend to sound reasonable sometimes and their packaging does look nice (and finding better pricing sure would help) but whenever I have briefly tried other brands, my dogs coats get dry and dull, their poop changes and I see a notable difference with just one bag of the other brands.   

 

I have fed all of my dogs and cats Science Diet and Royal Canin for the past 40 years and all have lived long healthy lives, exceeding the average lifespan for their breeds. 

 

Even if you have used another brand with success for one of your smaller breeds, these large breed puppies grow so fast and if they do not have the proper nutrition, they can end up with crooked legs and other problems. There is no undoing that mistake. 

 

Perhaps there are better choices out there, there certainly are LOTS of options but I only know of these two brands for sure because I have such a long track record with them for healthy development for the puppies, keeping their legs nice and straight, conformationally correct and my dogs and cats have all lived long healthy lives. No chronic illnesses, no daily medications, etc. 

 

At minimum, I would recommend these brands until they are at least 1 year old. Most of their rapid growth happens within their first year. 

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I have not personally been impressed with Purina Pro, the other brand occasionally recommended by veterinarians in recent years. Perhaps that was primarily due good targeted marketing.

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Other pricey brands do not necessarily mean that are good either. 

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But…after that long spiel… I am not really a fan of any commercial dog food. 

 

One day, I vow to make my own dog food. Or at least feed them mostly homemade food with perhaps some kibble for convenience when we travel.

 

I just have not made it a priority to do the extensive nutritional research.  There will be different dietary needs specific to this breed and at different life stages so I have not wanted to experiment with my dog's health, especially during pregnancy or with rapidly growing puppies. 

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It could be quite insufficient to simply follow an online recipe or feed a rapidly growing large breed puppy what may have been sufficient for an adult 40 lb dog of a different breed. 

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We do share our healthy human foods with our dogs often though. 

 

Salmon, chicken, eggs, greek yogurt, some vegetables and fruit, etc. Sometimes we get organ meat from our rancher neighbor. We offer them a variety of healthy foods. 

 

POTTY TRAINING 

 

Potty training isn't as much training as it is being proactive, getting them outside before they need to go, in combination with the puppies being at a certain point developmentally.  

 

For example, puppies who go home at 10 weeks may never have an accident but puppies who go home at 9 weeks may have more accidents so the older they are, the less accidents. 

 

Your puppies have heard the word “Potty” and have heard phrases like “Go potty”. 

 

At some point during their 9th week, most will go potty on command if they need to go. If they don’t, they usually sit in front of me to indicate that they heard me but they do not need to go. 

 

Set them up for success by being proactive. 

 

They need to go out often when they are young puppies. Some people find it useful to set a timer or use an App. 

 

Take them out before they need to go and say “Go potty” or whatever word you use.. 

 

Give lots of positive praise when they go potty outside. You can give them a treat but in my opinion, going potty when they need to go is the reward so I save the treats for other training. 

 

Puppies need do go: 

 

• Immediately upon awakening 

 

When they are really young, it is best to carry them outside when they first awaken or they may not make it all of the way to the door.  

 

• After meals

 

• Frequently during active playtime. Sometimes every 20 - 30 minutes.

 

• At least once during the night when they first come home (often around 2 - 4 am) 

 

 

They can hold their pee for approximately 1 hour,  per every 1 month of age but of course there are variables.  They do a little better than that overnight. 

 

If there is an area on your property or yard that you want them to get in the habit of going, take them there each time from the start.  They naturally venture further from the house to go as they get older.

 

Sometimes when they are playing a lot, they drink water to cool off, not because they are thirsty. If they drink a lot before bedtime, obviously, they will need to go pee more often during the night. If it is cool outside, consider letting them out to cool off versus making frequent trips to the water bowl before bedtime.

 

If they have an accident that you witness, just say something like “Uh-Oh” or “NO potty” in a lowered tone and take them right outside. Remind them “Potty OUTSIDE” in a happy tone, even if they do not need to go anymore. 

 

Too stern of a reprimand during potty training will scare them and can yield opposite results. Puppies should not be spanked or have their noses rubbed in their pee, as some people do. Potty training should be positive. 

 

If you discover an accident that was not witnessed, it is likely too late to call it to their attention.

 

Once they understand that they are supposed to go outside, they also have to figure out a way to communicate with you that they need to go out.  

 

Again, be proactive and take them out often but in time, they will try to let you know that they need to go out by: 

 

• “Noisy yawn” as I call it. They make a specific sound during a yawn.

 

• Panting

 

• Pacing/standing/restlessness

 

• Sniffing the ground

 

• Circling 

 

• And the obvious, starting to squat 

 

When they are older puppies they may:

 

• Stand by the door

 

• Sit by the door

 

• Whine or bark at the door

 

• Paw the door

 

• Make eye contact to get your attention   

 

If you have a secure yard, they can learn to use a doggy door soon after arriving home and those really come in handy! 

 

 EXPLORING YOUR HOME and PROPERTY 

 

When they first get home, they will start to explore your home and wander in and out of rooms.

 

One may make the assumption that their puppy is acting somewhat indifferent towards them at first but they are simply on the job in their new location, before they begin other activities, like cuddling and playing. They are already working as your Guardian, even as a young puppy. 

 

They are actually mapping out your house and your property, like a GPS.  

 

As your Guardian, they need to fully familiarize themselves with the layout of your home and of your property so they could act in a hurry, if need be.  

 

This may take a few days from start to finish (not continuously, of course). 

 

Once it is all clearly mapped in their minds, they will make a habit of laying by your feet, as your loyal Guardian. 

 

BEDTIME  

 

The best and easiest way to help them make the transition to their new home (for both you and your puppy) is to put them in bed with you to sleep at night when they first come home.  

 

This does not need to be a long term plan if you prefer that they sleep on their own bed later. 

 

You are not starting a "bad habit". You are just giving your baby the security that they need as young puppies. 

 

As a mammal and member of a litter, they have only known the comfort and security of being snuggled up next to their mother and their littermates, their entire lives, prior to coming home to you. 

 

Please trust me with this recommendation, even if you have had a previous rule of no dogs allowed in bed. I promise, this way will be much easier for them and easier for you as well. 

 

There will be no crying and no keeping you up during the night, just a content puppy snuggled next to you for the time being, until they are ready to sleep on their own.

 

Having them in the bed with you also has another advantage. Potty training. If they are on the floor and need to go during the night, they most likely will not awaken you (until they are older). 

 

On the bed, when they need to go out, they will typically awaken you by sitting up and panting or standing, acting restless or they may try to jump off the bed. 

 

As far as sleeping in your bed long term, do not worry about that if that is not your preference. 

 

Most of them get too hot and get down off of the bed on their own in time.

 

Some may wish to get down right away but at least you offered, some only wish to stay a night or two, others may prefer a week or more and only a small number may wish to stay long term.  

 

Starting a new bedtime routine once they are a little older is as simple as asking them to get off the bed and go lay down on their own bed. They are generally very compliant to your preferences.  

 

NO CRATES PLEASE!  

 

Please, please, please do not lock your precious puppy in a cage, despite how often it is falsely referred to as “training”.  

 

Most of us are appalled to see the heartbreaking images of dogs in cages at puppy mills, yet somehow it became acceptable for so many people to put their dog in a cage in their own home. 

 

I can only assume that this whole crate thing got started by the multibillion dollar pet industry. 

 

They had the brilliant idea to call it a crate, like something that we use for blueberries, not a cage. That sounds awful. Nobody would buy them. 

 

Add the word “training" so it sounds nice, even though the dog has no choice so where is the training? 

 

Then tell people that the dogs can be potty trained this way (because the poor things will try to hold it until the last desperate minute because they don’t want to pee or poop inches from where they are forced to stay). 

 

Humm, I think all of us have been stuck in traffic after 2 cups of coffee. Holding it is absolutely miserable!

 

Also tell people that dogs are like wolves (well not exactly) and that dogs want to stay in a "den". (Not mentioning the fact that wolf dens are mostly just used when wolves have pups). 

 

Well…I had a high percentage Timber Wolf and he slept on the grass, the couch, the bed or the floor. No interest in digging a den to sleep in his entire life. 

   

What baffles me though is why are the “trainers” on board with this too?! 

 

I think the biggest reason is that a lot of people do not truly think for themselves. They parrot what they hear and they follow the masses. It does not mean that it is good advice. 

 

All throughout history, the masses have believed all sorts of outrageous and cruel things, with lots of conviction, that we would find to be appalling today. Once a trend gets started, it can really take off. 

 

So back to the trainers' stake in all of this. Many people want to hear the easy answer. They want a dog but they work long hours so they want to hear that it is OK to leave a dog locked in a little cage for hours while they are away because they view that as the simplest solution.

 

When they finally get home, their dog now has lots of stored up energy, which leads to unwanted behaviour so now the dog needs more training and the trainers have an ongoing clientele. 

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Those are my guesses anyway. I really don't know why so many people are on board with this but I truly think it is cruel, whether our most faithful companion cries for hours or accepts the situation and deals with it by going to sleep. Well, honestly, what else are they going to do?  

 

UGH. Poor dogs. It breaks my heart. 

 

Sooo many people love dogs. Lots of people complain publicly about all sorts of things that they are all fired up about and lots more make it their life's mission to help to educate people about making the world a better place for animals so hopefully one way or another, the messages will be shared and this crate era will come to an end as abruptly as it got started.  

 

Please do your own gut check on this one and if you really think about it, hopefully you will also come to the conclusion that it is actually cruel. We would not lock our child in a cage and we should not do so for our beloved dogs either. There are better options. 

 

Of course, crates are temporarily necessary for cargo travel, at the groomer, etc. but your puppy should not be locked  in a crate otherwise.

 

A crate with the door open is fine. 

 

Guardian dogs, in particular, should not be locked in a cage. Not only are crates not necessary for them, (not even as puppies), they can be detrimental to their psyche because being locked in a crate takes away everything that they have been bred to do.

 

Guardian dogs are meant to be able to see a vast distance, to reposition and scan for potential threats and to freely stay with whatever species they are tasked to watch over. 

 

Even though these puppies are family pets and are left to protecting livestock in the mountains, they still have the same behaviors hardwired, no matter how small their property may be.  

 

They need guidance but are good puppies and they usually make good decisions. 

 

I prefer to give them a chance to make good choices on their own, instead locking them up. 

 

If I need to go somewhere without my puppy, I will try to schedule my outing during their midday nap time.

 

I pick up remotes, shoes, anything that may be a chew risk, no toxic house plants or chemicals within reach, etc. and I shut my office door (computer cords). 

 

They have their toys available in their toy bins and a doggie door to go outside to the securely fenced backyard. They are likely to opt to stay outside on their own anyway.

 

Mostly, they just sleep if I am gone (I can see them with the cameras). 

 

No reason at all to put them in a cage. 

 

FEAR PERIODS 

 

Puppies go through multiple fear periods, as normal developmental stages. 

 

This hypervigilance to their surroundings is likely by design by nature, coinciding with when they start to venture out into the world and again during their adolescence, age 6 - 14 months. 

 

The first fear period is at 8 - 11 weeks of age, so right around the time they go home. 

 

There are varying degrees of how they go through these fear periods, some are not perceptible at all while others are notably more fearful.

 

They can become fearful of things that never bothered them previously. 

 

A bad experience for them during their fear period can be locked in for life, affecting their behavior in certain situations. Most of the time though, they get through it just fine and their confidence resumes. 

 

It is important to not overwhelm them or force them to interact with something that is causing fear because their fears are very real for them at the time. 

 

At the same time, giving them lots of petting and praise in this circumstance can send the message that you approve of their fearful behavior and you may want to see more of that in the future, which would not be true. 

 

I think it is best not to feed into the fearful behavior in one way or another. 

 

A balance between not forcing them but not coddling them either. Remaining neutral, calm and confident is the ideal energy. 

 

These puppies are usually fairly adventurous but if they are afraid, perhaps see if you can find a way to help them to succeed with little accomplishments to help gain their confidence in that circumstance.  

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OTHER DOGS 

 

Not all adult dogs are fans of puppies, just like some people enjoy being around young children more than others. 

 

Senior dogs are often guarded because they have arthritis and other aches and pains and do not want a puppy to jump on them and hurt them. 

 

Other dogs may enjoy puppies just fine but it is common for them to initially act somewhat indifferent and they may even growl or snap when a puppy enters their personal space. 

 

Dogs follow a hierarchy and adult dogs rank higher than puppies. 

 

Within the family, the older dog needs to establish rules with the puppy and that is not easily done if they instantly start to play with the puppy, like a peer.   

 

Playtime will likely come by invitation later, after the hierarchy is clearly established. 

 

Assuming that the other dog is a stable, well adjusted dog, we can usually trust their judgment for how they interact with a puppy but with supervision at first because puppies can be poorly influenced, negatively affected, even traumatised by an unstable dog who acts aggressively towards them. 

 

FRANTICALLY EATING GROSS THINGS

SOFT POOP & GUT MICROBIOME

 

PLEASE READ THIS

 

Not the most interesting topic for some but an important one nonetheless because it comes up a lot and it may save you a lot of unnecessary worries (and vet bills). 

 

Healthy young puppies commonly have well formed poop, soft poop, like soft serve ice cream, runny poop, diarrhea and everything in between all on the same day, even within the same hour. 

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If there are NO other symptoms,

it is normal  for young puppies to have soft, loose poop or diarrhea at times, even for multiple days in a row.  

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THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE STATEMENT ABOVE, is... IF there are no other symptoms. ​

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* If a puppy is lethargic, has a decreased appetite, fever, vomiting, bloody diarrhea, abdominal pain, (hunched posture, guarded when palpated) or weight loss or otherwise seems ill, the puppy needs to go to a veterinarian right away.*  

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Young puppies do not tend to be very stoic. It is usually very easy to see that they are not feeling well, even when it is something minor. 

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Thankfully, we have never had puppy illnesses here on our property and NO puppies born here have ever contracted a serious illness after going home but I always urge puppy parents to use an abundance of caution to help mitigate risks while they are very young. 

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​So why do healthy young puppies get loose poop? 

 

There are many factors, anything from hydration, to stress, to activity levels (often gets runny when they are more active), plus, not every bag of puppy food is exactly alike within the same brand but there is another primary reason. 

 

There may even be additional reasons for them to evacuate in haste that we may not know about yet. 

 

The primary reason is that young puppies have very sensitive and immature GI systems.

 

They are born with an essentially sterile GI tract and their necessary gut microbiome is acquired over time. 

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Gut microbiome are the good (and necessary) microorganisms, including bacteria, fungi, and viruses, that live in the digestive tract. 

 

We are continuing to learn more and more about all of the different ways that gut microbiome contributes to body systems and overall health but it is well understood that they are necessary for digestion.  

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Just like human babies, puppies taste and chew on lots of things every day so they are continuing to acquire their microbiome via their new environment (as well as through diet) after they come home. 

 

Young puppies frantically gobble down gross things that we would rather they didn’t so we do have to watch them very carefully or they may eat something toxic or something that is an impaction risk. 

 

The more harmless things that they may eat are probably helping them to build their gut microbiome. Nonetheless, some things will give them diarrhea. 

 

Around here, they may find a little dry dead lizard. Before having multiple puppies over the years and recognizing that they were all so determined to eat such things, initially, I tried to try to pry it out of their mouths while they quickly tried to gulp them down. I realized that they all do it and therefore it is likely something that their bodies need.

 

A little lizard jerky, OK fine, but someone's vape pen dropped in a parking lot, definitely not. If they find a dead rodent elsewhere, that worries me too because it may have died from rat poisoning. So they need to be watched closely but some things are likely harmless and beneficial to them. 

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By the time they go home at 9 - 10 weeks, their little bodies have only been digesting solid food for 4 - 5 weeks. It is a work in progress. 

 

Here, they have not eaten their first solid food until age 5 weeks, coinciding with when their mother begins to purge her meals of partially digested puppy kibble for them to eat, providing them with digestive enzymes (and gut bacteria) to aid in digesting food, other than milk. Their primary diet at 5 weeks is still mostly milk, eating more softened puppy food each day and dry kibble by about age 7 weeks. 

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Unnecessary antibiotics may only contribute to more diarrhea.

 

What has happened, (somewhat often over the years before I realized that I need to have this talk with puppy parents for every litter), is that puppy parents get understandably worried when their puppy has loose poop or diarrhea. No other symptoms.

 

They took their puppy to their veterinarian and the veterinarian put them on antibiotics that they did not need. Most often metronidazole, the treatment for giardia, even if giardia was not actually diagnosed via a fecal exam. Again, the puppies had no other symptoms. Perfectly healthy. 

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To our puppy parents who are veterinarians, as you know, I have much respect and appreciation for your profession.

 

There is wide range of talent and experience levels within all professions so my example here is not pertaining to all veterinarians of course but it has happened often enough for me to be compelled to mention here so puppy parents can avoid what some of the other puppy parents experienced. 

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Yes, puppies can get giardia and it is somewhat common these days but giardia generally produces additional symptoms and is easily diagnosed by fecal exam.

 

Fecal exams do have their limitations though. For example, are the parasites in that particular small sample, was the sample processed correctly, was the evaluator of the sample skilled enough in evaluating microscopic particles and organisms (many look alike) to obtain a correct diagnosis? 

 

My general rule with evaluating an animals health, (as well as when I worked in human medicine or as it pertains to my own health) is to always assess the patient first and do not jump to conclusions about a diagnosis or get too hung up on a particular lab result, when the results contradict what the patient is demonstrating. Lab results can be wrong or can be skewed by other factors, there are often other explanations for a particular symptom or behavior and many different illness have similar or overlapping symptoms. 

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Treat the patient, not the symptom. 

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So if a puppy behaving completely normally, is not demonstrating that they are actually sick and they merely have occasional "normal" puppy diarrhea, they should NOT be put on antibiotics.  

 

Their fragile, immature gut microbiome would be likely wiped out again by the antibiotics, or the antibiotics disrupt the delicate balance of fungi, bacteria and viruses when only the bacteria are killed, creating an opportunity for an overgrowth of the others. 

 

Metronidazole also has anti-inflammatory properties so it often produces short term improvement for diarrhea, only to have it return after treatment. 

 

It is not uncommon they may get antibiotic associated/induced diarrhea and it creates an unnecessary cycle. Not fun for the parents or the puppy and all totally unnecessary in the first place in those cases.  

 

So I recommend being very conservative about giving them antibiotics. Only when actually necessary for a confirmed infection. Even mild cases of giardia can be self limiting (goes away on its own).  

 

 

BioSponge

 

If they are otherwise fine but the diarrhea has gone on for multiple days straight and you are worried about it, you can give them BioSponge (by Platinum Performance - available on their website). 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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